Mendoza, Argentina

Everything You Need to Know for a Successful Trip to

“The Land of Sun and Good Wine”

(or in Spanish, “Tierra del Sol y Buen Vino”)

If you have ever drank a bottle of Malbec, there is a good chance it was from Mendoza, Argentina. Malbec from this region has surged in popularity over the past few decades for several reasons, including its improvements in quality, approachable style, lower average price point, and ease of pronunciation (yes, that is a factor!). Mendoza can be considered the new epicenter for this wine, especially in the United States where almost all of the Malbec on our store shelves and restaurant wine lists are from there.

Mendoza is called “the land of sun and good wine” for good reason – it gets 300 days of sun per year and is increasingly known for producing high-quality wine, especially Malbec. This reputation was all I needed to visit and use the trip as the jumping off point for this blog/travel guide, Passport Vino! The premise of it is to “go before,” explore, learn, make mistakes, make friends, and share my experiences and learnings, helping to pave the way for others looking to do wine-related traveling. Here is everything I learned that will help you have an amazing wine-focused trip to Mendoza, Argentina!

What’s Covered:

1. Defining Mendoza
2. Climate, Weather & Seasons
3. Best & Worst Times to Visit
4. English, Anyone?
5. Getting There
6. Airport Transportation
7. Getting Around Mendoza City
8. Getting to the Wineries
9. Where to Stay
10. Dining & Nightlife
11. Safety
12. The People
13. What to Eat & Drink (Besides Wine)
14. Tipping
15. Important Travel Tips
16. Visiting Wineries
17. Featured Wineries
18. Other Things to See & Do
19. Conclusion
20. Special Thanks

“Mendoza”

First, let’s define what “Mendoza” is so we’re on the same page. The name can be used to describe several things, including 1) the wine growing region, 2) the province (similar to a state in the US) with the same geographical boundary as the wine region, and 3) the name of the largest city in the region; which is also its capital. When I reference Mendoza in this article, I am speaking about the wine growing region unless otherwise stated.

Mendoza is located on the western edge of Argentina, landlocked and bordering the Andes Mountains that run in between Argentina and Chile. The region covers a land area slightly less than the size of Illinois (coincidentally, I live in Chicago). The abundance of high altitude vineyards, some of the highest vine plantings in the world, are one of the reasons Mendoza has gained so much respect and intrigue on the international stage. It is also the most important wine growing region in Argentina in terms of notoriety and volume of wine produced, accounting for almost two-thirds of all wine made in the country; which is the fifth largest wine producing country in the world. So yeah, Mendoza is kind of a big deal!

Mendoza city, which is located in the north-central section of the region, has just over one million people in the metropolitan area, making it only the fourth largest city in Argentina. A large portion of this population resides in the outskirts of the city, so the “downtown” area doesn’t feel like a huge city. What it lacks in skyscrapers, it makes up for with charm and hospitality, without the fast pace of life that comes with bigger cities like Argentina’s capital, Buenos Aires. Mendoza’s streets are lined with wide sidewalks and plenty of green, shade-giving trees. Having such a green city wasn’t an easy feat, requiring the massive undertaking of digging irrigation channels (called “acequias”) for every row of trees (more on the weather and precipitation in the next section). By the way, be careful of these as they make for quite the fall hazards if you’re not paying attention!

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Climate, Weather & Seasons

The first thing to be reminded of is that Argentina is on the southern hemisphere; which means that their seasons are the exact opposite of ours in the United States (our winter is their summer and vise versa). Technically they have a continental climate just like the Midwest, meaning they have four distinct seasons, but theirs are fairly different than what I’m used to here in Chicago. The average low temp in Mendoza’s coldest months (June and July) is a not-too-bad 36 degrees Fahrenheit and the average high is a relatively balmy 59 degrees. For reference, the average low in Chicago during the winter is 17 degrees and the average high is only 31. Their moderate winters and dry air make snow an uncommon occurrence. Mendoza’s summers have an average low of 57 degrees and an average high of 90 (verses 64 and 84 respectively in Chicago). By the way, they use the Celsius scale in Argentina but I converted the temps to Fahrenheit for us gringos.

Many people would be surprised to know that Mendoza is basically a desert – it gets an average of just over 8″ of rain and 300 days of sun per year! Although it doesn’t seem possible to produce healthy grapes with that amount of precipitation, the melting snow from the mountains provides the moisture needed to sustain the vines. The Argentines have mastered their water supply issue by building a huge network of trenches, irrigation channels, and reservoirs; all strictly controlled by the government. The steady sunlight and lack of rain and snow make for some pretty predictable travel weather!

Best & Worst Times of the Year to Visit

The answer to this depends on what you want from your trip. I wouldn’t say there is a bad time to go, just different pros and cons to consider. I went in the latter half of their winter and enjoyed moderate temps and no crowds at the wineries. However, the vines were dormant and had no leaves or grapes; which makes the vineyards slightly less picturesque. The vines are in full bloom in their summers, but a lot of people say that it is too hot for their liking and therefore recommend avoiding peak summertime visits, especially January.

If you are someone who likes to party and doesn’t want the extreme heat of the summer, early March (their fall season) might be the best time for you. This is when they have their “Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia” (or just “Vendimia“); which translates to “National Grape Harvest Festival.” This 10-day annual festival engulfs the entire region. Everyone, including kids, joins in on the fun with parades, bands, dancing, light shows, and a pageant where representatives from each of Mendoza’s eighteen “departments” (counties) compete to be the queen. 

English, Anyone?

English speakers are often spoiled when traveling abroad as the language is widely spoken around the world. You won’t be as lucky in Mendoza. Everyone I met in the wine and tourism industry spoke English extremely well, but I didn’t find many English speakers in the city. “The younger folk” tended to speak some English, but it was still fairly rare and I didn’t find many who were fluent. Fortunately for me, I speak un poco Español and was able to communicate fairly well. I am confident that non-Spanish speakers will get by just fine though. Most Argentines I came across were very willing to try to communicate and help out despite the language barrier. I had Google Translate open on my cell phone’s web browser to help with certain words or phrases I didn’t know, and you would be surprised how far you can get with just body language.

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Getting There

There aren’t any direct flights from Chicago to Mendoza, but that gave me a few options in diverting my trip to another city along the way. My total flight time was about 13 hours plus layovers. If you want to stop somewhere regionally in South America, Santiago, Chile is actually closer to Mendoza than Buenos Aires, Argentina. The flight from Santiago is only about 50 minutes (and provides a breathtaking view over the top of the Andes) whereas Buenos Aires is just under a two-hour flight. I went through Santiago and spent some time on the front and back end of my trip there because it is also surrounded by wine regions (that blog post coming soon). Buenos Aires isn’t an important wine-growing region; although I hear it is an amazing city for food, culture, and architecture. My roundtrip flight between Santiago and Mendoza cost about $130, and it was booked pretty close to my trip date.

Airport Transportation

Mendoza’s single-terminal airport, Governor Francisco Gabrielli International Airport, better known as El Plumerillo (airport code MDZ), is small and very easy to navigate. My trips in and out were easily the fastest and smoothest I have ever gotten through customs (as it is an international flight) and security at an airport. Ever!

If your first stop will be to the city of Mendoza, located 8 kilometers away, you basically have two options to get there as the public transportation isn’t a great option (it is difficult to figure out, inconsistent, and not perfectly safe). Uber wasn’t allowed at the time of my trip (a law was passed and Uber will legally be available in Mendoza as soon as September 2018). Your options are, 1) a taxi using a standard meter, or 2) a private driver using his/her own car, called a “remis” (“remises” for plural) for a flat fee. When I first landed, I asked a lady at a desk in the airport for a recommendation and she brought me to the lineup of remises waiting. There were also taxis out there, so I wasn’t sure why she suggested the remis, but it was a perfectly acceptable option. They charged me 190 pesos (just over $6 US) for the 20-30 minute trip; which I paid in cash when we got to my destination. On the way back to the airport I took a taxi and it cost was just a few pesos more (195). Later I was told that remises are usually cheaper and can be advantageous because you will know exactly what you’re paying as the price is a flat fee based on distance. There is the risk with taxis that the driver will take you a longer way to increase their fee. It is a good habit to ask for confirmation of the price before starting your trip with the remis. Both taxis and remises only accept cash, so make sure to hit the ATM or currency exchange in the airport before getting into the car! It isn’t quite as easy to get remises on the way back to the airport because they can’t be flagged down like a taxi can.  You can call ahead to schedule a ride at 261-428-4432. 

Getting Around the city of Mendoza

As mentioned, Mendoza’s public transportation system isn’t world-class by any means, but plenty of people do figure it out and make use of it. Fortunately, Mendoza is a very walkable city as most of the places a tourist would want to go are centrally located. There are also taxi stands scattered about if you want a ride. I found walking to be a great way to explore and soak up the culture while burning off some of the calories from all the great food and drinks Mendoza has to offer!

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Getting to the Wineries

This will be an extremely important decision to make and it is closely related to the “Where to Stay” section below. You basically have three options on how to get to and from the wineries:

1. 1. Hire a Personal Driver. This is the most convenient method but also more expensive renting a car. You get the flexibility of having your own car without any of the responsibility, and your driver often plays the part of tour guide. Many of these semi-professional drivers actually help arrange winery visits for you. This can be very helpful but the extra services are often baked into the price, even if you did your own homework and winery bookings (as I did). Also, they usually have their standard routes and are taken care of by the wineries for bringing people so their suggestions might be a bit biased/limited. The quotes I saw online ranged from $190 to $250 (USD) for the day; which was pretty expensive for a lone traveler but much better if you have a full car. If you do some searching, aren’t planning on going extremely far (as in not to the Uco Valley), and are a good negotiator, you can usually find some better deals. I met someone who got a driver for $75 for his day trip to Lujan de Cuyo. I did not test this option myself exactly, but I did wind up hiring a taxi driver for the day. It sort of just happened that way so I don’t know how repeatable it is. Upon jumping in a random taxi and telling him where I needed to go first – I was going to test bouncing from winery to winery with different cabs – the driver offered to stick with me for the day. The entire day, which included three wineries in the Lujan de Cuyo region, cost me 1,700 pesos (about $57). The meter was only running while he drove, which we agreed upon ahead of time. Many taxi drivers, including this one, don’t speak much English, but we managed to have some pleasant conversations.
   2. Professional Tour Company. This option is nice because you don’t have to plan anything and have a relatively clear understanding of what to expect before you depart. Tour packages range from private and customized to pre-arranged group tours. These companies have more overhead, so you usually pay more than hiring a personal driver. Prices for semi-private can range from $100 per person to $350 for the 7-8 hour day trip.  The difference in price includes the number of wineries you’ll visit, the quality/reputation of the wineries, the size of your tour, the distance traveled, where lunch will be and how many courses will be provided. For group tours, you will likely be in a van with up to 10 people total, some tours will have a bus with 20 or more. Some tour options include an olive farm/olive oil factory as this is the other important agricultural product of Argentina. The advantage of using a professional tour company is that they are an official business who value their reputation, so, in theory, you get more consistency, structure, insurance and the advantage of being able to read reviews ahead of time (like these on Trip Advisor). Besides making the reservations and driving, they also know the right amount of time needed between stops to help ensure you arrive when you should. This option has the least amount of stress, they take care of everything for you, and you have a professional tour guide providing interesting context all day. You might even make some new friends, but then again, you might get stuck with that guy or couple… Also, you won’t be able to completely customize your tour unless you pay for a private tour; which is only important if you have very specific wineries you want to visit. 
   3. Rent a Car. Overall I had a positive experience with this option, although it wasn’t my favorite. First, I want to warn you that Argentina has pretty strict drinking and driving laws with a blood-alcohol limit of 0.05% (versus 0.08% in the US). In researching my trip, I had heard about random checkpoints and I actually came across one on my drive to the Uco Valley. All they did was check my trunk (not sure what they were looking for) and then let me continue. Having my own car gave me the freedom to come and go as I pleased, and they do drive on “the right side” of the road, so it was pretty easy to adapt to driving in Mendoza, but this option has more responsibility and risk. I paid $45 for a 24-hour car rental; which was the best deal I could find after searching a handful of sites. I also had to pay for overnight street parking and gas, another $23. In total, renting a car cost me $68. However, I used this option on my trip to the Uco Valley; which is almost three times as far as Lujan de Cuyo, so a driver or taxi would have cost more than what I paid when I took the taxi there. One thing I didn’t factor in was the amount of time it took to find a good deal, walk to the rental agency, wait in line, fill out the forms, inspect the car, get gas before returning it, and having the vehicle inspected upon returning. It wasn’t as convenient as getting picked up by a personal driver. When you add having to focus on the road instead of the scenery while driving, paying attention to directions, and be very cautious about how much wine is consumed, I would have rather paid for a driver. It might be a good option if you have a few people to split up the cost and someone does not mind being the designated driver.

Where to Stay

If you’re traveling to Mendoza primarily for the wine, you basically have two options to pursue in terms of where to stay: 1) travel to and stay in each wine sub-region you plan on visiting, or 2) stay in the city of Mendoza and make day trips to each sub-region. There are pros and cons to both.

If you stay a day or two within each sub-regions that you plan on visiting, you will have a completely different and completely authentic experience in each one. This option also allows you to spend less time in a car and more time soaking up the wineries, local culture, and tranquil mountain views. It likely requires renting a car to travel from region to region, although you could reasonably get by with taking taxis between wineries once you get there (although you might have to wait awhile for pickups) and could even take a taxi between each region if you wanted to for a reasonable price. This option requires more suitcase packing for those of you who like to have one consistent home base.

Since I didn’t get this advice before my trip, I stayed in Mendoza city every night and made day trips to the wine country. It was manageable as the drives ranged from 30 minutes to two hours, but I could definitely see how it would be more relaxing to stay locally in each sub-region. If you want a bustling nightlife, you may prefer to stay in Mendoza city as some of the wine regions are located around much smaller, quiet towns. Many of the wineries have great restaurants, but these are only open during regular business hours, and the dining options in some of these small towns might be limited.

Most everything is centrally located in Mendoza, allowing you to get familiar with the city quickly, what is often referred to as “centro” (means “center”); which is their equivalent to “downtown.”  See the map I created below that shows where the bulk everything you’ll be looking for as a tourist are concentrated.  I stayed in a (very affordable) Airbnb on Colon and Bartolome Mitre streets and was able to walk everywhere I went to in the city.  

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/3/embed?mid=1Hb0_ucENptOSvEB-TbuCUlG-5bS1vp3-&w=640&h=480]

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Dining & Nightlife

A lot of the dining options and nightlife areas in Mendoza are centrally located as well. Although there are great bars and restaurants scattered around Mendoza (see the map for the main areas), there are two areas I recommend that have an even higher concentration:

• Aristides Villanueva Ave: This five-block stretch is filled with bars and restaurants and provides the perfect way to start a night out. With a mix of dining and drinking options, people of all ages, inside and outside areas, and a mix of both locals and tourists, everyone can find something right for them. The area around this street is covered with other dining options, from fine dining to neighborhood spots.  It’s also within walking distance to most of the other bars and restaurants you might want to visit (see the map).
• Chacras de Coria: This quiet-by-day suburb about 20 minutes from downtown is host to a lot of the late night action in Mendoza.  I know what you’re thinking, “a suburb?!”  This charming upper-middle class town has classic Argentine charm and enough bars, restaurant and cafe options to keep things interesting.  And it’s closer to the wineries of the Lujan de Cuyo region.  You’ll actually be close enough to take a winery bike tour!

Most people from Mendoza have dinner later than we do in the US – 9:00 PM at the earliest. Many restaurants will be open before that for the tourists, but you won’t get the same experience. Mendoza likes to party! There are late night bars and “discos” that stay open to 5:00 AM.

Safety

I felt safe at all times during my stay in Mendoza. Like any large city, you have to use common sense, pay attention to your surroundings, and be careful where you go and what time you go. There are bad areas of Mendoza city, but you likely won’t accidentally stumble into them if you’re staying downtown.

The People

I found the people of Mendoza to be very welcoming, warm and authentic. The language created a bit of a barrier, but almost everyone was open to engage me and try to figure out what I was saying. Personally, I love being immersed in a culture where English isn’t spoken, it puts me outside of my usual element and I get a lot of energy from that. Since the city is not overrun with tourists yet, they seem to really enjoy visitors and want to make sure that we have a good time.

Mendozians are a fairly relaxed people. This shows up in their punctuality, so don’t get offended if they are late.  To them, it is not a big deal (“what’s the rush?”). The good news is that they are pretty forgiving if you are running behind as well.

Siestas are commonplace in Mendoza and other northern regions of Argentina, so feel free to participate and take a nap after a big lunch and get refreshed for your evening activities. If you’re not used to having dinner at 10:30 PM, you’ll need the extra boost! Nap time is generally between 2:00 PM to 4:00 PM. Not only should you expect many shops in the city to close during this time, but it can also be considered impolite to call during siesta hours. Most wineries tend to stay open and forego their naps (they are very hospitality focused).

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• What to Eat & Drink (Besides Wine, of Course)

  Mendoza has a serious food history and scene and there are many food & beverage staples that you should try while there. One of the most important things to experience is carne asado. First, let’s set the table on the definition and use of an “o” versus an “a” in “asado/a.” Carne asada (with an “a”), is the term used in many Latin America countries that translates to “grilled meats;” which includes many cuts of (often marinated) beef. In Central and North America, carne asada is usually considered more than the food, it’s the event, similar to how we use “barbecue” as both the name and style of the food as well as the event. In Argentina and other parts of South America, they call it “carne asado” and it takes on a slightly different meaning. Although they also use it as the term for the party/event, the potential meat options are expanded to include pork, chicken, and chorizo, and they usually are not marinated. From the outside, the differences are pretty nuanced and we can think of them both as “barbecues with flame-cooked meats.” You will be blessed, as I was, to attend an authentic asado. Besides the meat, Argentines also pride themselves on how they get the flames that cook their meats. You won’t see a bag of charcoal briquettes, lighter fluid, or gas grills here. True Argentinian asado starts with burning wood down for hours ahead of time to create just the right ember for grilling. Here are some other traditional foods and beverages to indulge in:

  • Empanadas: Originally a Spanish dish that is now popular in many countries in South America, including Argentina. They are savory, dough-wrapped pockets of various ingredients (often beef, ham, or chicken are used as the base meat) that are baked or fried. Empanadas can be served as an appetizer or a main dish.
  • Lomito Sandwich: “Lomo” translates to “tenderloin” and “ito” is the Spanish way to call something little; although these sandwiches are anything but little. Argentina is known for their amazing beef and the lomito sandwich is a staple here. Ingredients include sliced steak, tomato, lettuce, onion, chimichurri sauce, mayonnaise, ham, a fried egg, and/or melted cheese. Yup, you read all of that correctly. So it is big and messy and just amazing. They call it “the king of fast food snacks.”
  • Mate (pronounced “ma-tay”): Although common to find in many South American countries, mate is very popular in Argentina. It is sort of like a loose leaf green tea in that the mate leaves are dried, chopped, and ground into a tea-like mixture (called “yerba”) that is steeped in hot water, but the drinking experience is very different. Traditionally, mate was drunk out of a hollowed gourd, but now ceramic cups are the standard. No tea bag is used, so in order to keep the leaf particles out of your mouth, they use a metal straw that has a filter on the end, called a “bombilla.” Argentines love to share one cup of mate with each other, passing it around in a circle of friends, adding more hot water from a thermos as they go. When mate is found in the States, it is usually much more of a powder than the Argentinian version, so it is definitely something unique to take home with you.
  • Fernet & Coke (pronounced “fur-net”): Argentina has a strong Italian influence, and Fernet is a bitter Italian liqueur that is traditionally used as a digestif. The Argentines, especially the youth, make a cocktail out of it by adding Coke; which adds sweetness to balance the herbal bitterness. It has a love it or hate it taste, so you should try at least one to find out what side of the fence you are on!
  • Wine Penguin: Although this isn’t a food or drink in itself, I want to share with you the traditional “wine penguin” of Argentina. These penguin-shaped carafes are commonly used to serve house wine, whether at home or at a restaurant. For centuries Argentina was making huge quantities of inexpensive table wine, often bought in very large, more generic containers (not 750ml wine bottles with pretty labels). The wine penguin was a much more manageable and classy way to serve wine at a table. They are not used for expensive wines at fancy restaurants.  This fun trend seems to be making a comeback.

  

  

  

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  Tipping

  As a general rule, a typical tip (called a “propina” in Spanish) percentage is around 10%. You should tip for similar services as you would in the States. Often times the suggested tip will be included in restaurant bills. The servers are generally good at pointing it out and asking if you accept it before charging you. Your winery guides and drivers do appreciate the sign of gratitude as well.

  Important Travel Tips

  You might want to skim some of the other sections, but everyone should read this one!

  • Money!  This topic is often a point of confusion for new international travelers, especially as every country has its quirks.  I personally usually bring a couple hundred US dollars with me on trips as an emergency backup (large bills are recommended and easier to exchange) and get some local cash out of an ATM as soon as I land, but I try to use my credit cards as much as possible once I’m there.
  • Conversion Rate: At the time of my trip, $1 US converted to ~30 Argentine pesos, and the trend lately is that the dollar continues to strengthen against their peso. Almost everything in Mendoza seemed pretty inexpensive. The food and wine were no exception to this, always seeming to be at least 30% cheaper than I would expect to pay for something comparable in the US.
  • Credit Cards: Fortunately, I never had any problem using my credit cards to purchase anything in Mendoza (except that taxis don’t take cards there).  Restaurants/retailers would usually need to see an ID when I used my cards (a drivers license was sufficient so you can leave your passport at home).  TIP: Call all of your credit card companies before your trip and inform them of your travel plans so they don’t block “suspicious” transactions! Also, check all of your card’s foreign transaction fees and try to use only the ones with the best rates; which can vary dramatically. Some cards don’t have any foreign transaction fees (AmEx is known for this). It might even be worth getting one if you plan on doing much international traveling.
  • ATMs/Getting Cash: This is something you need to pay attention to – I had a lot of issues with getting money at ATMs– I was only able to get cash out of about 10% of the ATMs I tried! I had a Visa ATM debit card (from Chase), and one of my local Mendoza friends told me that Mastercard was more widely accepted there. I can’t verify how true this is nor can I confirm that it would be easy with a Mastercard. Either way, it was strange as I haven’t had that issue almost anywhere else I have traveled internationally. My Visa credit cards worked 100% of the times at places that accept credit cards, but it is still important and convenient to have some cash to pay for smaller items and with vendors that don’t accept cards (like taxis).  There are also relatively low withdrawal amounts ($150-$170 depending on the exchange rate). The ATM at the airport worked for me so you might want to grab some cash as soon as you land, especially to be able to pay for your transportation to the city. During one ridiculous excursion looking for an ATM that would give me money, a helpful Argentine stepped in and directed to the casino in the Error! Hyperlink reference not valid. on the west side of the  Independence Plaza where I was able to easily withdraw money from a teller. These links might be helpful – here is a link to Visa ATMs in Mendoza and here is one for Mastercard ATMs (their ATM network is under the Cirrus brand).
  • Currency Exchanges: You can also bring US dollars and get the money exchanged at currency exchanges. TIP: the airport exchange counters usually don’t give the best rate, but they are the most convenient. Personally, I feel it is better not to carry a lot of cash. One reason is that it can not be replaced if lost/stolen, the other is just so you don’t have to exchange it back to dollars on your way out of town, paying conversion fees both ways.
  • Uber/Lyft: Neither of these services were available when I was there, but as mentioned, Uber has been approved and plans to start operating as early as September 2018. I found taxis and walking to be generally sufficient, but there is nothing like the convenience of an app where the payment and communicating about the final destination is taken care of.  Uber has had a history of going into new cities internationally without asking permission and operates somewhat below the radar while it negotiates with the governments.  This was my experience in Santiago and was told it was similar in Buenos Aires.
  • Electronics & Adapters: Don’t let this slip your mind – you won’t be able to plug your devices into wall outlets in Argentina without an adapter!  The power plugs and sockets in Argentina are of type C and I and the standard voltage is 220 V.  Be sure to bring a power step-down adapter as well as socket adapters.  Something like this unit on Amazon will work not only in Argentina but in most countries around the globe.  Here is what you can expect to see on the walls in Mendoza:

      

  • Cell phones: I have an iPhone with AT&T service. They offer a $10/day option to be able to use your cell phone internationally (at least in certain countries) with your exact same plan in the States. Before the trip I was thinking of trying to severely limit my cell phone use, and “go off the grid” for a bit, but I am sure glad I got this package because I used it constantly! Whether it was for directions, checking email, sending messages via WhatsApp, or using Google to translate words, I used my phone quite a bit and was glad I wasn’t having to count pennies by getting a pay-for-usage plan.
  • WhatsApp: I used this app to communicate with my new local friends and the winery contacts. WhatsApp is a messaging/calling app (now owned by Facebook) that is very popular in most other countries outside of the US. It is like the message and the phone apps on your smartphone, but better as they are combined and feature-rich. You can even send voice message texts, instead of texting words or calling and leaving a message. I recommend downloading it before you arrive just in case you need it.
  • Clocks: They often use a 24-hour clock (military time) instead of the 12-hour clock with AM/PM we are most used to in the States.
  • Timezone: Mendoza was one hour ahead of the Eastern time zone when I was there, but they don’t observe a daylight savings time, so that will shift by one hour as the US adjusts its times back and forth.

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  Visiting Wineries

  Finally, the good stuff! Although we all want to try as many wines as possible, I recommend capping the number of wineries you visit in any given day to three. Each visit usually takes one to two hours, so if you get a good jump in the morning, you can get two in during the morning to early afternoon and then gives you time to slow down a bit in the afternoon and have a relaxing lunch at the third winery. Most wineries are only opened to 5:00/5:30 PM, so be sure to get started earlier in the day and save other city adventures for the evenings.

  Most wineries are only open Monday through Saturday, and some aren’t open on Saturday, so make sure to account for that in your travel dates. Saturday night and Sunday might be a great time to head into the city.

  Featured Wineries

  Here are the wineries I visited and a brief description of each.  Click on any one of them for more details, pictures and videos:

  Lujan de Cuyo

  • Viña Alicia: This winery is off of the grid, you’re not going to find it on a paid tour.  In fact, it will be hard to find even if you’re looking for it!  I was lucky enough to get connected with their brand ambassador, Matt Berrondo, who gave me a personal tour.  Fortunately for all of you, he has offered to do the same for anyone who reads this and wants the same!  He’s not only a great guy, he also provides so much context about Mendoza and its wine scene. Their wine is phenomenal, so hit him up if you’re looking for a personalized tour at a boutique winery with some of the best hospitality in Mendoza.
  • Finca Decero: You probably think that you’re lost and getting more lost while you’re on your way to this beautiful winery, but the long, rocky road does eventually wind up at this hidden gem.  I had one of the most peaceful and inspiring meals ever (as in “ever in my life”) sitting on their back porch endulging in several courses of food and wine while overlooking their vineyards and the Andes Mountains.  They only make red wines here, but their focus comes through loud and clear in their juice.
  • Bodega Dante Robino: A modern and sophisticated winery that specializes in sparkling wine, second only in production to Chandon; which is owned by the conglomorate Moet & Hennessey.  The tour is very educational, helping to show the unique production methods of sparkling wine. A definite must for the sparkling wine enthusiasts!
  • Casa El Enemigo: The love child of some of the biggest names in Argentine wine – Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil.  Adrianna is the daughter of the famed Nicolas Catena (basically the father of modern Argentine wine) and Alejandro has been the chief winemaker at Catena Zapata since 2002.  Their 2013 Gran Enemigo recently was awarded 100 points from the Wine Advocate, breaking the glass ceiling for Argentina wine. They do a great job of giving an educational tour combined with one of the best meals in Mendoza.
  • Bodega Renacer: Renacer was designed to resemble a beautiful Tuscan estate.  Their facilities are beautiful. They have a tasting room, gazebo area for events, and a rooftop deck overlooking the Andes Mountains.  Another cool feature of the tour was their virtual reality headset that made the dormant vines come alive with all of their summer glory!

  Uco Valley

  • Bodega Corazón Del Sol: An uber-modern winery in the “The Vines” cooperative, located at the foot of the Andes Mountains (even closer than the others!).  This place is tranquil, you feel like you are in the middle of a winery dropped in the middle of the desert (because you are).  The Vines is an interesting story that I will touch on more if you click on the link, but if you can make it to the Uco Valley (and you really should), then Corazón Del Sol is a great choice.

  [googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/3/embed?mid=1Hb0_ucENptOSvEB-TbuCUlG-5bS1vp3-&w=640&h=480]

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  Other things to See & Do

  I know that we are in Mendoza for the wine, but I recommend carving out some time to expand just a bit. Some good options are:

  • Andes Mountains: The mountain range is in sight during most of your drives outside of Mendoza and it provides a lovely backdrop to many of the wineries, but even those at 3,000+ feet in elevation are still only in the foothills of the mountain. If you have an extra day or two, try to get up into the peaks for a whole new perspective. Mendoza is at the doorstep of Mount Aconcagua, the highest peak (22,837 ft) in the Southern and Western hemispheres. There is great skiing and snowboarding but you can’t ski or snowboard at Aconcagua. For that, you can go to Las Leñas. A trip to the Andes might be a good trip for the weekends when some of the vineyards are closed. Trekking is another fun option if you have the time. Expeditions and permissions are granted in Mendoza City, you can book an expedition or go by your self. There are two basic routes, 1) Ruta Normal (Normal Route) which takes almost 15 days to get to the summit, or 2) Ruta Glaciar de los Polacos (Polish Route). In both cases, you have to pay permission to get into this Province Park.  
  • Parks: Mendoza has many green parks scattered through the central part of the city, including Parque General San Martín (General San Martín Park). They are filled with people and life and are well maintained.
  • Museums Mendoze doesn’t have a world-renowned museum scene but they do have the Museo Nacional del Vino (National Wine Museum) in Maipu.
  • Tango: The famous dance originated along the border of Argentina and Uruguay, the two countries sharing the title of originating. It is more associated with Buenos Aires than Mendoza, but you will be able to find some Tango spots in Mendoza with some Googling, sometimes even at wineries, depending on the season. 

  In Conclusion

  Mendoza is an emergine wine destination, but it is not yet crowded or overrun by tourists. Fortunately, their hospitality and wine culture are advanced and advancing. For these reason, I highly recommend Mendoza as a wine destination for several years to come. Go for the wine, fall in love with the scenery, culture and the people. You’ll be glad you did. Now I want to here from you.

  Have you been? What did you think? Anything I left out?
  Are you going? What else do you want to know?

  I would love to get feedback, suggestions, and questions. If you have any questions about Mendoza that I can’t answer, my Mendozian friends should be able to.  Thank you for reading, salud (cheers)!

  Special Thanks

  I want to thank some very helpful people, integral to this blog coming together and for making my trip a success: Veronica (“Pimpo”) for introducing me to the wine trade in Mendoza and input on the blog; Matt Berrondo (from wineCLOUDtv) for your amazing hospitality, insights into Mendoza, and the wine penguin; Paula for your insights into “life in Mendoza” and help with the blog content; and all of the wine industry professionals who reached out to me and invited me to their beautiful wineries and shared their knowledge, wine and food! Thank you to Rebekah for help with the video editing and Yoonjie for helping set-up the website.  Last but not least, thank you God for blessing me with this amazing opportunity!

  – Joseph Sheahan

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